All about voltage stabilizers (to help the home master)

A theoretical and practical guide for those who decide to install a voltage regulator in their home.

First, introduce myself: my name is Alexander Anatolyevich Rumyantsev, I have been working in the electrical industry for more than 12 years, of which more than 8 years I communicate directly with voltage stabilizers. At the moment, I lead the company Santek, which represents the brand of voltage regulators SUNTEK on the market. During this time, before my eyes, there was a formation and decline of many companies, many brands of stabilizers appeared and disappeared. But each existing (or former) brand has left its mark on the Internet in the form of advertising articles and announcements.

A simple layman entering a query on voltage stabilizers in a search engine will immediately stumble upon eulogies and abusive speeches of all brands, a bunch of countries of manufacturers, and even with direct communication very often on the forums experienced managers, introducing themselves as ordinary users, will give you the "right" advice for buying.

This massive confusion is understandable - high competition does not tolerate pants sitting around waiting for calls, you need to spin as actively as possible, but the impression is of mass uniformity of all stabilizers, where the buyer is essentially presented only with a choice in price and appearance of the device. And this is not at all true. The main thing in the voltage regulator is its functional filling, its operating range, quality and type of execution. This work is devoted precisely to a detailed separation of the types of voltage stabilizers for the correct choice of rating and type of stabilizer.

What is a voltage regulator?

The voltage stabilizer is a converter of electrical energy that allows you to get the output voltage that is within the specified limits with significantly greater fluctuations in the input voltage and load resistance. A voltage stabilizer (regardless of type) is a device designed to protect equipment from unstable power supply and network failures. To maintain a stable 220 Volts for your devices, no matter how the input voltage changes, it is suitable for a voltage regulator.

The stabilizer is connected to a current source (perhaps this is an input to the house, cottage, etc.) at one end, and the other end is connected to the equipment. Input voltage is constantly monitored and checked regularly. An automatic voltage regulator does not require any human intervention, but regulates the voltage automatically whenever there is a voltage surge or there is an energy pulse that can reach the connected equipment.

Download e-book "All about voltage stabilizers (to help the home master)" you can here:

P.S. 23.09.2013 d. an updated version of the book "All about voltage stabilizers (to help the master self-taught)" was released. This is a theoretical and practical guide for those who decide to install a voltage regulator in their home.

Book's contents:

1. Start

2. What are we talking about?

3. Types of networks. Basic concepts.

4. Types of voltage stabilizers: a) relay b) electromechanical c) ferroresonant d) thyristor

5. Types of networks. Basic concepts.

6. Additional functions of stabilizers

7. Connection of voltage stabilizers

8. How to choose a voltage regulator

9. Examples of the correct selection of voltage regulator

You can download the second edition of the e-book "All About Voltage Stabilizers" here:

Comments

[#1 Marat]

Tell me, does the stabilizer protect against voltage surges up to 380 V when the neutral wire burns out? In theory, he should somehow react to this mode and reduce the voltage to nominal. Or in this case, you still need to put an additional voltage relay. Simply, if you spend money and put a voltage regulator on the apartment, then you want to have a fully-functional emergency device.

By power, a voltage regulator is needed for 8-9 kW. Are there stabilizers of such power with protection against large power surges?

[#2]

Hello. I downloaded the book. Honestly, for me, as an electrician, there is little new information. I would like more. I have been interested in this topic for a long time and I think for starters to put the stabilizer purely on the lighting network. When repairing, I put the lighting of the whole apartment on one machine. My bulbs often burn due to power surges. Question. How to determine the magnitude of these throws? This is an important parameter when choosing a stabilizer. Are there any devices that over time can record real data on how the voltage behaves over time? Some modern counters have this feature. But do not change the counter for this? If there is such a device, then it would be possible to take measurements at the cottage, and then already having all the documents in hand, talk calmly with the chairman of the partnership. And one more question. A box about what size it will be, if purely for lighting in a three-room apartment? Where is it better to put it? Is it safe just in the apartment itself, for example, in a closet in the hallway or do you need to buy an additional switchboard for it in addition? Still really need a voltage regulator connection diagram. It is needed in order to plan everything in advance. The price doesn't really bother. The main thing is to deal with all the exciting issues from the beginning. Thanks.
Pavel Alekhnovich

[#3]

Marat, good evening! Yes, stabilizers protect against such large leaps. For many models, it stands at the top and more often when the output voltage from the stabilizer terminals reaches 240-250 Volts, the stabilizer turns off and is in standby mode, after normalizing the jump (returning voltage to normal), the stabilizers automatically turn on. The stabilizer in your case, I would advise a relay type (high speed response to voltage changes)

Pavel AlekhnovichThanks for the interesting questions. I will try to answer in order. Indeed, the magnitude of the surges is important, most voltage regulators withstand surges of 40-50 volts, they do not miss larger surges, but turn off for a while. I personally have not encountered a device measuring jumps and recording this over time and I can not advise anything. But any stabilizer is a device that smooths jumps, so without a device, if you see jumps, then you need to install a stabilizer. In your case, I would recommend an electromechanical voltage stabilizer, due to the higher stabilization accuracy. Lamps can, of course, fade at large jumps, but the voltage will normalize smoothly, it is important you yourself know it smoothly here. If you take a stabilizer for lighting, then you need to know the total power consumption of all the lights on at the same time. And it is advisable to measure the voltage with a clamp meter in the evening and from these parameters already select a stabilizer. In size they are not large in length no more than 40 cm, thickness 10-17 cm. Of course there are deviations ... The stabilizer can be installed in a cabinet, the shield is not necessary.The main thing is he is afraid of condensation, he has a degree of protection IP20, and if in the house, then in any place convenient for you, certainly not in the bedroom, after all, the noise from a moving brush or relay will still be heard at night. According to the connection scheme, it is necessary to speak already for a specific model, the connection can be either through a socket or through a terminal block. I am ready to the best of my knowledge to help you choose a stabilizer, if anything, write [e-mail]

Sincerely, Alexander.

[#4 Svetlana]

The book is useful, it should come in handy. It happened to communicate on various technical issues with consultants and company managers, as a result, only spoiled nerves and mess in my head. For me it’s much better to read a book. It can be seen that the book was written by a specialist. Thanks for the book!

Recently I visit the site more and more often. It has long been a regular reader. I really like the way complex technical issues are simply stated on the site. Keep up the good work!

[#5 Marat]

Alexander, thanks for such a detailed comment! Tell me, now they write everywhere that the most modern and high-quality are inverter voltage stabilizers. You recommend relay type stabilizers. It turns out that inverters react worse to voltage changes? But logically, they should be better. All the same, there is high-speed electronics in the filling. Or is the price factor important here and they are better, but you do not recommend them, since they are much more expensive? Do inverter stabilizers have significant drawbacks besides price? Maybe when choosing to immediately focus on modern devices, or is it not so important? Could it be that in a few years the relay devices for voltage stabilization become obsolete and have to be replaced with something more modern? Sorry, if it is messy written, it's just interesting to figure it out.

[#6]

Marat, good afternoon! Your question is clear. The inverter type of conversion has been known for a very long time and is not a development of our time, generators, stabilizers, welders, uninterruptible power supplies, etc. have been using it for a long time. Indeed, this type of stabilization in terms of characteristics is very worthy: a high-quality sine at the output, very fast. In my opinion, such stabilizers must be installed in places with high-precision equipment: laboratories, hospitals, research institutes. Unfortunately, as far as I know, even such stabilizers in wholesale sales have a defect of the order of 1-2%, but the most important minus, as you correctly wrote, is the price. For household appliances that are not sensitive to deviations of 5-10-15 volts, such a stabilizer will in principle exceed the minimum obligations of the defender. Therefore, other types of stabilization are used in everyday life, for appliances they are almost no worse, but at a price they are once more affordable.

Svetlana, Thanks for the kind words!

Sincerely, Alexander.

[#7]

Marat, the fact is that the author of this material is a representative of Santek - http://www.suntek.su/product.html, which produces relay stabilizers, which is why he actively promotes them. I already sent a more neutral review of voltage stabilizers for publication on this site. Here is a link to my article: Criteria for choosing voltage stabilizers for the home.
At the moment, the most appropriate will be the acquisition of an electronic (triac) stabilizer. The price / quality ratio of such devices is the best. Moreover, mind you, I do not sell stabilizers, but only sometimes I write articles for this and other sites, so I look at this issue more neutrally and objectively. Good luck

[#8 Andrew]

Triac stabilizers greatly distort the output voltage, in addition, they have large dimensions, weight and high price.

According to Santek (SUNTEK) on YouTube, a video with an example of stabilizer tests - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAH0p1vnoHc

Nothing bad can be said. But there is a small power stabilizer. How a more powerful stabilizer will behave when fully loaded is unknown. Well, if I’m not mistaken, Santek is China, although what is being done now not in China? Previously, I met their analogues, they were called Sorg. Reviews on them were not very good. Maybe now under the brand name Santek produce better products. The Chinese also learn a little from their mistakes and improve production.

P.S. Himself a couple of times put people Resanta, also China. I did not choose, just connected what was already bought. So far they had no special problems and no one complained. Here's how lucky.

[#9]

Yakov Kuznetsov, good afternoon!

Well, now I really sell SUNTEK stabilizers, and indeed, so far I have nothing against relay, but also against electromechanical ones, I just don’t have enough money to cover everything :) but I suggest the most optimal type of stabilizer in my opinion, and what brand do you choose, I’ll not advise here. I wrote a booklet to the last chapter on examples and on Santek, not only for advertising, but also because such a line of stabilizers is at hand and it is convenient to measure and calculate everything with it.

AndrewI agree with you. I would very much like to produce voltage stabilizers in Russia, but, unfortunately, the situation is such that it is much cheaper to produce in China, bring, clear and sell here .. That's it ... Yes, and we no longer have a full-fledged element base .. Russian manufacturers and then partially use Chinese spare parts ...

Sincerely, Alexander.

[#10 Andrew]

Hello. We have constant power surges due to the welding machine at the neighbors. The voltage drops to 180-160 volts. The total capacity of my consumers is about 25 kW / h. What can you advise?

[#11]

Andrey, good afternoon! The stabilizer will not be able to fully combat such frequent power surges as during welding. All the same, blinking will be visible, much less of course than without it, but it will still be. Every impulse he will try to correct will be hard work for him. Many buyers, when welding a neighbor, generally switch to bypass and wait when the process ends. If you correctly understand that 25 KVA in one phase, then a thyristor or triac stabilizer is suitable for such a large power, these fast response stabilizers are like a relay type (they simply do not do such power). It has high efficiency with a small voltage drop. This is important where the input voltage is very unstable, fluctuates or can reach critical values: extremely high or low. For example, just where the welding work is carried out. If you have 25 kVA in three phases of 8.5 kVA each, then you can take relay stabilizers with a capacity of 10,11,12 kVA

Sincerely, Alexander

[#12]

What and how much can the changes in the "sine" at the output affect?
As far as I understand, this is most unfavorable for precision instruments (computer, TV, instrumentation, etc.).
Electric motors and transformers are likely to be affected by some significant distortion.
Heaters are probably not supposed to respond to curve distortions.

(if I'm wrong, correct)

In general, the question of whether it is enough to install a triac stabilizer for the whole house (20 kW input) or is it better to separate the power supply for consumers (this winter there were drops to 160 volts).

[#13]

Eugene, good afternoon!

Installing a stabilizer in the whole house allows you to fully protect all appliances. And it doesn’t matter, it will be a triac, relay or electromechanical voltage stabilizer.If you have any exact instruments - put them on a small stabilizer, for additional protection.

[#14]

Alexander, rummaged a dozen sites about stabilizers and schemes for their inclusion, but nowhere did not find the answer to the question: - the stabilizer turns on BEFORE or AFTER an RCD, is this of fundamental importance? Thanks.

[#15]

AnatolyLet me answer your question.

Stabilizers are connected after the main input automaton to the object. Moreover, the value of the input automaton largely determines the allowable power of the voltage regulator, which can be set.

It was said above by the user Andrew, what

"The triac stabilizers greatly distort the output voltage, in addition, they have large dimensions, weight and high price."

It is not entirely clear what was meant by the distortion of the OUTPUT voltage. I’ll draw your attention to Volter ™ stabilizers - triac stabilizers with high accuracy of the output voltage. The model range is the broadest both in terms of capacities and stabilization ranges, as well as in output accuracy.

Dimensions quite acceptable for installation both at home, and in the apartment, and in offices. Widely used in production.

Weight... it is not entirely clear why this parameter affects the choice of a stabilizer for the home. Mount on a wall / rack / cabinet and enjoy a quality level of voltage.

Price... In this case, the price is 100% determines the quality of the products. It is better to pay more and be sure that the household appliances are protected, and not buy a Chinese Resanta, which will quickly cease (if at all) to adequately fulfill its tasks.

[#16]

Andrew, good afternoon! In your case, you need to install a relay stabilizer. For example, the SUNTEK stabilizers described above, model 11000 VA, allow not only to quench welding pulses, but also allow cooking through the stabilizer by inverter welding up to 180A.

AndrewSorry, I didn’t look at the power, yes you need of course a 25-30 KVA stabilizer

[#17]

Can I install a stabilizer in the entrance?

[#18]

I advise you to turn directly to specialists, as I did two years ago and recommend it to you. I contacted the ORTA company, they gave me full information about what and which suits me best. I bought the Orion 380v stabilizer from them and they also gave me a lifetime warranty on the service. And I advise you to do the same.

[#19]

Good afternoon! In our house, the voltage jumps from 160 to 200, and because of this, all devices work very sluggishly. Please tell me how you can solve the problem, will the stabilizer help, if so, what type is better to consider? Power is about 5 kW.
I rummaged through a very large number of sites but I can not find a clear answer to this question!

[#20]

In 2014, I purchased a truly electronic voltage stabilizer 6ooo watt inverter type weighing 4.5 kg. Release Novosibirsk. Great thing.

[#21]

And we acquired our Ortea stabilizer back in 2010, and found their website directly on the Internet and said. And it still works fine, has never failed, Italian quality and reliability are felt, and we were warned that this device has a very long life, so I'm glad that we bought it and are now protected from power surges for a long time.

[#22]

I have a problem with stabilizers ... or with electricity, I don’t even know what to do.
I put the SASSIN SVC-8000W at home. From time to time is cut down. Moreover, neither the excess lamp nor the low voltage lamp is lit. I measure the voltage in the network - 230V.
On the stub, "normal operation" is on, and the output voltage is 0.
Changed to a similar stub RESANT, behaves similarly.
Distortion of the stabilizer switch or input automaton returns the stabilizer to normal operation.
Something in the network is such that takes stabilizers out of itself. What to do

[#23]

If you install a cheap stabilizer in order to save money, then you still have to overpay when it breaks and you have to buy a new one. We had a Chinese stabilizer at home. Get sick of fixing it!

[#24]

Good day. A TV, telecard is connected to the AVR-1000 stabilizer. Recently stb. often goes into stabilization mode and immediately into normal mode. The apartment, the machines do not break. Now, within 30 minutes with an interval of 1-2 minutes clicks. Is this a malfunction of the device? In other rooms stb. no and everything is fine.

[#25 Oleg]

Hello. We bought a medical device, an oxygen concentrator. It must be powered by working ex. 230 V, operating power 360 watts. One trouble is the countryside and in the evenings the voltage reaches 250 V, and in the morning and afternoon it is normal 220-230V. At first they tried to connect via a conventional non-inverter type stabilizer and the thermal relay burned out right away. The master stated what happened precisely because of the conventional stabilizer distorting the sine wave, issuing meanders instead of the sine wave, and advised putting an inverter type stabilizer. But they are all expensive !!! Advise, maybe you can put a stabilizer of a different type, which would not distort the sinusoid. What would you advise? And that master said that even if the descriptions of non-inverter stabilizers indicate that they give out a supposedly pure sine wave, then this is not at all. Is it really true?

[#26]

You need to put a voltage regulator in the garage, who knows what temperature requirements are in use? The garage is unheated. There are no sudden changes in temperature, but in winter there is minus temperature.

[#27 Ainur]

Hello, Alexander! I recently watched the SUNTEK 11000BA stabilizer test. It was opened but on the power relays there were no signs at all. Type, brand, Current strength designations are absent, it is "not very good." Is he going to the basement or something, or is it all the same factory China. Survey and test of the voltage regulator SUNTEK 11000BA who are interested in h t t p s: //sysadmin.link/? P = 497.
You are actively involved in the implementation of these stabilizers. Please explain tso we buy "FRIEND" in a private house or a pig in a poke. Thanks in advance for the detailed answer.

[#28 Alexander]

Good afternoon.
In our cooperative, there are problems with the voltage and the stabilizer often shows an incoming voltage of 160-250, and the last time the outgoing voltage is not 220 (198-250).
Question: Is this a stabilizer problem? Should I buy a new one?